How To Pound Out, Or Pop Out, A Car Dent, Diy Auto Body Dent Repair

TOOLS NEEDED:

SOFT HAMMER
(or Ball Peen Hammer)
BODY HAMMERS
HAMMERING DOLLY
(or Solid Metal Piece)
TORCH or LIGHTER
VICE-GRIP PLIERS
36-120 GRIT SANDPAPER
600 GRIT WET/DRY PAPER
SMALL WOOD BLOCK
METAL FILE
SUCTION CUP
DRY ICE
RULER
DRILL & GRIT DISK
SPRAY PRIMER

Auto body dents come in all shapes and sizes, from a large crease, to a shallow depression or just a little ding. One quality they all share is they distort the original shape of the sheet metal. The general definition of a dent is any place where the metal of the cars body has been stretched. So, in order to repair the car body, one has to bring the dent back to its original shape by un-stretching the metal. Depending on the type of dent, one can pop out the dent or pound out the dent.

If youre the DIY (Do It Yourself) type, then you’ll try to repair dents in your car’s body yourself. Before attempting this, compare the costs of hiring a professional with your confidence of doing the job properly yourself…and be honest about your auto body repair experience and ability. If youre one of those people that starts a car project and then gets frustrated half way through because its harder than you thought, (YOU know who you are!) then it is probably best only to risk a dent repair job yourself with an older, less expensive car. That way, the repair costs might already be more than the car’s actual value. Even then, you may only be able to repair fender dents, as they can be removed without anything from the car’s interior getting in the way (IE inner door panels).

There are two main types of car dent repairs: paint restoration repair and dent repair without paint. The first type of dent repair is for minor dents and dings, and paint restoration dent repair is for when serious damage was inflicted on the car body part(s). Many car owners, especially in this economy, are looking for ways to get around paying to take their car to an auto repair shop. With this in mind, Ill cover both DIY small dent removal and large dent repair. Ill put a disclaimer right up front that the following methods with not work for every dent, every time. Yet, there is no harm in trying them to save a buck.

Small Dents & Do It Yourself DIY Fender Dent Repair

SOFT HAMMER DENT REMOVAL:

Most cars today feature a car body so thin and flexible that dents can be created accidentally…by simply leaning on your car! Most very small dents can be easily repaired with a soft hammer. Always aim for the center of the dent, to avoid making new marks on the outer circumference of it, and pound out the depression. NOTE: you may have to view the dent from the underside of the car. With a fender dent, this can only be done by raising the vehicle and removing the wheel under the dent. Then, while hammering with one hand, you can feel the outside of the fender with your other. This allows you to check that the dent is evenly pushed out. If you *still* cant remove the dent, jump ahead to the large dent removal section of this article, as you will have to remove the fender from the car.

TORCH, LIGHTER & HAIR DRYER DENT REMOVAL:
http://metacafe.com/watch/963248/remove_car_dent_with_a_lighter/

You can heat the convex (dented) portion of a car dent with a torch, lighter or hair dryer, until it glows a dull red. Then stop heating it and let the dented surface cool. As the metal cools, the dent will shrink back, and hopefully pop out, leaving the surface very close to original.

SUCTION CUP DENT REMOVAL:

If you are not able to pound out your small dent easily, you may have a medium dent in your car. In that case, you can attach a large suction cup with a handle to the dented car part…and pull out the dent. How does this work? As you squeeze the cup against the car bodys dented surface, you are actually squeezing the air out from underneath it. The resulting vacuum you create causes the suction cup to stick onto the surface. Start by placing the suction cup along the edge of the dent, pulling it out, and slowly working your way inward. If youre still having trouble, you should try tapping the dent with a soft hammer, from the inside, while you pull out the dent from the outside.

DRY ICE DENT REMOVAL:
A How To Video of DRY ICE DENT REMOVAL:
http://metacafe.com/watch/yt-ab5PdrAIKeo/how_to_cure_car_dent_with_dry_ice/

Dry ice may be used to repair a small car dent, and is sold by many grocery stores. (Always remember to use gloves when handling dry ice!) Simply place the dry ice in the center of the dent, wait for it to attach firmly to the car body, and gently pull out the dent. You may have to repeat this procedure several times for the dent to be totally removed.

Large Dents & Do It Yourself DIY Car Dent Repair

OK…the Intro To DIY Dent Removal 101 class ends HERE. The following techniques are for large dents, requiring more car repair experience and skill. Start by removing all bolts from the fender, and taking it off the car body. If you cant remove the fender, there is at least one hidden bolt left intact…find it and remove it. NOTE: Never force the fender off a car. (*Some* mechanics also recommend you drill a hole in the center of the dent, using a 1/8 inch drill bit. This is entirely up to YOU. If you are using a dent repair kit, you will most likely find a plastic adapter and glue gun included, and these would be used for that task.) Once the fender is lifted off, use a heavier hammer to pound out the dents from the fender’s underside. Always start from the CENTER of the dent and use short, small taps on the dent, not long, hard ones. As you pound out the dent, hold a hammer dolly against the outside of the fender to prevent making new protrusions around the dent. If the fender supports are bent, be sure to straighten them back out with vice-grip pliers. After youve successfully fixed the dent, simply re-attach all the bolts and put the fender back on the car.

Body hammers and hammer dollies come in many shapes, sizes and weights. First, examine the dent closely with a ruler for depth and length. Then, always choose the best-shaped and smallest size hammer that will do the job, and the dolly that has the closest curvature to the dented panel. If you don’t have body tools, you can try to use a ball peen hammer and solid scrap metal piece as your dolly. This will take a lot of taps, but wont do as much damage to your car body panel. Since all dents are unique, so is each dent repair, and you truly have to use your own best judgement to get the metal straightened. Start by placing the dolly against the top side of the dent and, swinging the hammer from the underside of the dent, begin tapping with MANY short, small taps.

The fender pictured above has a typical dent in the side: oval-shaped, 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. In that case, they used a hammer with a large, flat round top, to be sure the overall force of the blows would be evenly transmitted over an area of a couple square inches. This helped pound out the dent without creating unsightly, little pin-sized mounds. The head of the hammer should strike the sheet metal flat against its surface, as, at the same time,
you hold the dolly directly over where you are striking.

Note that, after every few taps, you must lift the dolly and examine the dent to be sure the taps are reducing the depth of the dent AND not resulting in little convex dents. If the taps are leaving little mounds on the surface, you must start using a hammer with a larger head. If the dent hasnt moved at all, put the dolly down and hit the inside of the dent harder. After the dent popped out, it left a slight raised section, which is easily seen under the straight edge.

If you pop out the dent, but end up with one spot that stands up too high, dont worry. This is common, and there are two ways to fix this reverse-dent. This time, put the dolly underneath the fender and gently tap the convex (raised) area with the smaller head of the hammer. Repetitive, small hammer hits should level the surface completely.

How To Tell If The Repair Conforms
To The Original Car Body Surface?

Using the body file, you can find the high spots that need additional attention, and very lightly tap them down until the surface returns to its original shape again.

You can now file the once dented area, scraping off the etching primer coating. As you file the surface, take note of which areas are still a little low and which are now a bit too high. Go back and re-do one of the above methods until the dent is removed enough to meet your standards. Then, use a medium grit disk mounted on a drill to grind the paint down to the bare metal for at least one inch around the dent. Next, fill the area with a high quality body filler. Allow that to dry completely, then sand the area with a block of wood wrapped in sandpaper. Prime the area with 6 coats of automotive spray primer. Be sure to allow each coat of primer to dry completely before applying the next one over it. Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry sandpaper to remove scratches. Touch up the area with a matching automotive paint. When applying automotive paint, do so using a spray gun and in a brisk, fluid motion. If the newly painted area is not smooth, re-sand and re-paint it until it is.

How good you need your dent repair to be is really up to each individual. You can keep working the dent until your file shows the metal surface is perfect, or you can leave little low spots to be filled later with body filler. NOTE: Overworking the metal can leave it brittle, and it might begin to crack instead of bend.

Sometimes…Less IS more! *smile* Generally, if you are considered (by yourself or others) to be a Perfectionist, then its probably best to have your car professionally repaired to its original, perfect self. Otherwise, you might find yourself endlessly obsessing and working the dent until it cracks. If your standards are more flexible, youre on a tight budget, and are handy with a hammer, then try our dent repair methods and let us know how it goes…GOOD LUCK!

Brief About Automotive Fault Codes

All cars and light trucks built for sale in the United States after 1996 are required to be OBD-II compliant. The European Union adopted (directive 98/69/EC) a similar law in 2001 for gasoline powered vehicles, and in 2003 for cars with diesel engines.
OBD II mandates a standard scan tool (SAE J 1978) with a single standard plug for all vehicles manufactured in U.S.A.
The Universal interface (SAE J 2201) requirements for Scan Tool (SAE J 1978), Data Communication Network Interface (SAE J 1850), (SAE J 1850), Interface connector (SAE J 1962) requirements, Test Modes (SAE J 1979), and Diagnostic Trouble codes (SAE J 2012), and Enhanced test modes (SAE J 2190), are described in detail in the standard. General characteristics, electrical and mechanical characteristics are also described in the HS-3000 standard. EPA regulation is that SAE J 1978 must have the capability to perform bi-directional diagnostic control. Vehicle manufacturers will use manufacturer specific messages to perform these functions, and later use SAE J 2205, (Expanded Scan Tool protocol) to enable these functions with SAE J 1978 automotive Scan tool.

SAE J2012 (Diagnostic Trouble Codes1) defines a set of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) where industry uniformity has been achieved.
The medium of communication is the serial data link described in SAE J 1850.
OBD II mandates that all trouble codes are logged when they are set and are retrieved by auto diagnostic scanner when commanded. And the diagnostic data must be made available when requested by the auto diagnostic scan tool. So the auto diagnostic scan Tool is to collect diagnostic messages from the vehicle. Which consists:
Analog inputs and outputs
Digital inputs and outputs
System status information
Calculated values

Important Note:
Only one Code must be stored in OBD II for each fault detected.
DTCs consist of an alpha character followed by four characters.
Pxxxx is reserved for powertrain DTCs
Bxxxx is reserved for body DTCs
Cxxxx is reserved for chassis DTCs
Uxxxx is reserved for network DTCs (UART the body electronics like door and roof control, air conditioning, and lightning, as well as for the entertainment control).

The second character designates whether the DTCs and a generic SAE DTC or a manufacturer specific DTC.
Powertrain codes
P0xxx – Generic
P1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
P2xxx – Generic
P30xx-P33xx – Manufacturer-specific
P34xx-P39xx Generic
Body codes
B0xxx – Generic
B1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
B2xxx – Manufacturer-specific
B3xxx – Generic
Chassis codes
C0xxx – Generic
C1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
C2xxx – Manufacturer-specific
C3xxx – Generic
Network Communication codes
U0xxx Generic
U1xxx – Manufacturer-specific
U2xxx – Manufacturer-specific
U3xxx Generic

The remaining characters designate the system associated with the fault. The characters are hex and can range from 0 F.
The third digit defines the specific system or sub-system within the car where the problem is located:
1.Fuel and Air Metering
2.Fuel and Air Metering (injector circuit malfunction only)
3.Ignition System or Misfire
4.Auxiliary Emission Control System
5.Vehicle Speed Control and Idle Control System
6.Computer Output Circuits
7.Transmissions
8.Transmissions
9.Control Modules, input and output signals

Sheet Metal Stamping In The Automotive Industry

Historically, sheet metal stamping has been used extensively to produce automotive body panels. Although sheet metal stamping use has decreased with the advent of fiberglass body panels, sheet metal stamping is still the most popular material for manufacturing automobiles today. The addition of lasers and robotics to the automobile manufacturing process has further expanded the way that sheet metal stamping is processed.

Lasers

Lasers have been used in production facilities since the 1960’s. Today, they are used to cut, form holes, engrave, weld or heat treat sheet metal stamping for use in automotive production.

Lasers are used in applications that rely on precise measurements and exact alignments.

The adjustment of lasers is measured in micrometers, or millionths of a meter.

There are many different types of lasers used to alter sheet metal stamping and plastics in the automotive industry.

Carbon dioxide laser- uses a mixture of carbon dioxide, nitrogen and helium to produce a continuous laser output

Continuous-wave laser- this type of laser produces light beams continuously rather than in controlled pulses

Excimer laser-emits light in a UV spectrum that is used for producing high quality edges on parts that are prone to cracking or thermal damage; it falls into the category of pulsed-gas lasers

Gas laser-any laser that uses a gas mixture as the lasing medium; common gases are argon and carbon dioxide

Pulsed laser-emits light in controlled pulses and is preferred for thin materials ; it can be used to create intricate details and work in tight corners without burning

Ruby laser-a solid state laser that uses a synthetic ruby crystal with a chromium impurity as the lasing medium

Solid-state laser-a type of laser that uses a crystal or glass as the host for an impurity to produce the lasing action; especially useful for precise measuring and spot welding

Yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG) laser-ranges in power from a few milliwatts to more than 400 watts; used for cutting, drilling, heat treating and welding operations

Robotics

Robotics are often used for repetitive tasks, monotonous jobs or those parts of the manufacturing process that are physically difficult or take place in environmentally unpleasant conditions. They are directed by computer programs and perform precise operations without human intervention.

Lasers and robotics have significantly increased the speed at which sheet metal stamping can be processed in the automotive manufacturing process. Continued technological advancements in these two areas will further increase the cost effectiveness and productivity of automotive manufacturing facilities.

Nanotechnology For Automotive Lubricant Systems.

How and why tungsten nanospheres work:
To start, nano particles (spheres) are hard to imagine. So small, that they can interact with engine lubricant and other matter on a molecular level.
This interaction allows them to become one with both the metal surfaces and the lubricant they are exposed to, enhancing engine efficiency, power and gas mileage.

The tungsten component is chemically inert, stable and unaffected by temperatures encountered in application as a lubricant. Tungsten nanospheres will not alter the carrier, exposure to them alters the way the metal of the friction surfaces interact with the lubricant .

Once the metals are exposed to the tungsten component in the carrier fluid, metal to metal friction is dramatically reduced, if not eliminated.
This increases engine efficiency and gas mileage.
The end result is a dramatic reduction in wear, the friction that causes wear, heat, and power losses. This will also increase gas mileage.

Primitive man discovered that rubbing dead animal fat on things made them work better. Ever since, man has quested for better means of lubricating the things he (or she) has created.
Lubrication has progressed from animal and vegetable based oils and greases, to highly refined mineral bases, silicone and synthetics. Graphite and Molybdenum have been used as additives in varying degrees in the past.
Tungsten nanospheres are an exciting development in lubrication for the 21st century.

Benefits:Lower friction, improved lubricity, lower energy costs.
Measurably better gas mileage , reduce wear, increase engine efficiency and
increased horsepower. Lower operating temperatures (as less energy is converted into heat). Increase in Oil / lubricant life and longer changeovers.
High Load bearing property means Reduction in wear of mating parts.
Offers increased corrosion resistance. Nanoparticles cannot clog oil or fuel filters as .5 micron particles easily pass through filter.

Characteristics :Nanoparticles are defined as any particle with a size less then 100 nanometer (0.1 micronmeter). When materials are made into nanoparticles, their reactivity increases. Nanoparticles have a very high surface area to volume ratio, due to this, a higher percentage of atoms (in nanoparticles) can interact with other matter. Therefore, the surface area (measured in square meters per gram) is the most important unit of measure for nanoparticles.The higher the surface area,the higher the lubricity.

Tungsten nanoparticles as applied to engine lubrication:Tungsten nanoparticles are one of the most expensive and highly developed lubricant additives available today.
Nanotechnology, as applied to lubricant additives, suspends the tungsten spheres in the circulating lubricant. This allows the tungsten component to be applied to all metal bearing surfaces, as well as cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. An important characteristic of nanoparticles, is that they bond to the metal friction surfaces. Essentially plating them, preventing metal to metal contact. Tungsten is one of the most wear resistant substances known to man. Tungsten nanoparticles are temperature resistant far beyond what is encountered in any automotive application.

Tim Evans Auto Repair Shop Attracts Customers To Boost Business

Tim Evans immediately noticed an increase in business after embracing the idea of marketing. The biggest result is that were still in business, says Tim. A lot of shops cant say that.

Evans Tire and Automotive Center is located in a highly competitive area in Smithfield, North Carolina. Like many other shops, sales began to slip. Tim knew he needed to do something to keep his repair shop open. Tim explains, Marketing really became a priority for us and its gone over well with the community. Now were known in our area for doing a lot of unique things with our marketing strategies.

Overview
As with many auto mechanics, repairing cars has always been in Tim’s blood. He was raised with a father that was a mechanic and owned his own shop since 1972. Tim jumped on board in 1980 and then later took it over from his father. His shop currently has a 13 to 15 bay capacity.

Serving the Smithfield community for more than 30 years, this shop offers a full line of tire services and auto repair for all makes and models and also sells competitively priced tires. Tim’s shop is an American Car Care Center where customers can benefit from warranties on automotive work, flat repairs and road hazards.

Challenges
Tim was faced with the challenge of keeping his auto shop open in a highly competitive area. As other shops were closing down he connected with Ron and learned how to attract and maintain the right type of customer.

Tim needed to find customers that would require repeat business. He had to learn how to market to these potential clients to first of all keep his shop open and then secondly to expand it.

Goals
Differentiate the shop from the competition.
Decrease overhead.
Increase capital, cash flow and net profits.
Implement streamlined operational systems.

Methods
By examining buying habits and the overall financial trend of the community, Tim was able to identify his desired customer and then develop a number of strategies that would successfully reach them. Its not about having one strategy that works really well, says Tim. Its about having 100 different strategies that all work a little bit.

Tim also utilized the methods that he learned from networking with other shop owners in Ron Ipachs Elite Mastermind groups. He explains, You can learn so much from your peers. All of these people in the group bring different experiences to the table. And you can get input on your particular challenge from numerous different people its been invaluable to me.

Conclusion
I wonder if we would even be here if we had not started marketing, says Tim. Marketing is a necessary evil; youve got to be in contact with your clients. Its very competitive out there, complexity of the world as a whole; youve got to market!